Thousands of Streaked Shearwaters swing around the side of our ship and disappear over the bow. A lull in activity reminds us of the cold but then we notice a small group of black baubles floating off the starboard side. Lifting my binoculars I see a pigeon-shaped creature with orange markings around the face and a little tuft of white feathers in front of the forehead. A rather strange-looking creature – a Rhinoceros Auklet!

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